7 jan 09 langkawi to naihan thailand 8 jan 09

Langkawi to Naihan Thailand 7th- 8th Jan 09
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Port Blair Andaman Islands 10th- 13th Jan 09
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Visas obtained in Thailand only allow 15days, visas obtained through Kuala Lumpur are not endorsed
for the Andaman and this is not a problem, on entry you are then given 30 days.
Port charges are calculated when you check out, we paid a total of 1065rps 10 days anchoring and
2entries. National Parks permits change each year but in 09 1000rps for the boat 500pp at each Park area
- not the whole Andamans When you check out everything is in reverse, it is time consuming and you
the offices are spread all over Aberdeen town. out but immigration will insist on coming to the boat
before you leave in the morning. You will get a port clearance number this has to be quoted to the Port
Authority when you make the vhf call on departure.
Used Vejay who appeared at the Chatham Island bridge dinghy landing. There is also Ravi but did not
meet him. VJ did the water, diesel and Laundry and did use him to take us to all the offices for
Clearing in everyone came to the boat but had to be collected as they have no boat. Customs officials
were the most bothersome, regards gifts, we had to go ashore next day for Port Clearance. You need
an Itinerary prepared in date order for your time in the Andamans
Lots of copies of everything and more! Check in everyday with Port captain on hf 8164mg when not in
Port Blair. The red tape is unbelievable and probably would never go there again even though we were
glad we went this time. Auto rickshaws are a cheap way of getting around, most speak English. Eating
was good at the Lighthouse restaurant near the aquarium and Cellular Jail was interesting.
Havelock beautiful spot left dinghy at western end of bay around the rock area- no swell. 4 of us hired a
jeep for the day to go round the island 1,200rps for the jeep and driver.
Sri Lanka 24th- 31st Jan 09
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Agent –
We used GAC shipping there is another one but much the same. Agents are compulsory, he
came to the boat after we were told to tie up on the wall which was ok as conditions were calm,
immigration and customs came to the boat, they did ask for a gift but we did not offer anything had no
problems, Agent took papers and passports to get port pass and visa. He charged 225us$ all inclusive
one month stay. Power available on the wall. Security tight – anything taken from the port for repair is
deemed dutiable so a big laundry bag is useful.
We used DeDe for laundry and tours he also has tame auto rickshaw drivers. Canvas repair at the end
of the port road. Turn right at the end of the road and a short walk takes you passed the Buffalo curd
maker, fresh daily yummy. Fish stalls and onto a supermarket which is well stocked and turned out to
be the best option in Galle. Mikes store is on the first turn on the right after the port entrance road he
does not have much and offers delivery with conditions! Lots of banks in town with ATMs
I did a trip in land with a friend for 4 days 3 nights which I thought turned out to be a little expensive but
we did see a lot, saw stick fisherman on the SE coast, inland through wetlands to Ella in the hills where
we had one night then on the train for 3hours were met by the driver and guide and taken to plantation
for morning tea then onto Kandi where we went to the botanical gardens, Buddhas tooth temple and
traditional dancing in the evening, stayed one night there and then cave temple in the morning, Segirya
in the afternoon, well worth the effort of the climb!! Late in the afternoon was great light and cool
winds. We stayed near Dambula that night and next day on way back to Galle visited the elephant
orphanage. This was a great photo opportunity but very touristy and lacking in information, but good
none the less. Graham had worked hard on the boom whilst I was away and various other small jobs as
well as fuelling and watering the boat. So we were ready to clear out on Sunday and leave Monday, Sri
Lankans have a public holiday every full moon, this is a Buddhist holiday so we think this was why
there were not too many fishing boats out and about. In all our sailing even to Cochin only 2 boats came
close enough to call out but lots of fishing boats out there that we had to dodge, but all lit up.
Cochin India 9th -12th Feb 09
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Arrived at night good entrance well marked but out going ships take the center of the channel so we
hade to stand by whilst they passed. Anchored near the Taj Malabar Hotel Willingdon Island as in Red
Sea Pilot.
Port authority came straight away gave us our first piece of paper, told us re anchor, area is small and
shoals quickly. Customs come to boat next morning and take you ashore to do convoluted check in but
all pleasant, just time consuming no one asked for anything. Moved to Bolghatty hotel on high tide.
Anchorage sheltered and secure.
Water available at the hotel jetty for 100rps for a month no matter how much you take. Dinghy dock
near the High Court jetty on other side. Auto rickshaws average 30rps around town. Nazar is the local
“no problem can do” guy very pleasant but be firm will organize diesel , laundry and beer, he lives in
Fort Cochi and will come to your boat when you arrive at quarantine anchorage, it is not necessary to
have him with you when clearing in, although make sure you have a way of getting back to your boat as
customs were nowhere to be found when we had finished and the Taj Malaba agreed to take us back at
no charge. Walk along esplanade (hold nose at low tide) to the Ferry across to Mattencherry and fort
Cochi. (prices different on each side) Supermarket nearest and best is Ashi’s 5min walk passed the
High Court Jetty (use this name as a reference for rickshaw drivers not Bolghatti)road turns left on to
Banerji Rd, Ashi’s is first right and on the left across road If you stay on Banerji Rd on the right is a
bottle shop of sorts, turn right to get to the Market this then leads on to Jews street which has hardware,
spices, garlic and onion sellers. Staying on Banerji Rd will take you to MG road turn right (major road)
lots of shops of all kinds and eating places and The Café group of coffee shops good coffee and coffee
beans for sale. Jews rd meets here on the right near the cinema. . Nigiri supermarket is on Ravipurum
Rd. with more western selection and variety of vegies.
We took the public bus from Ernakullum bus station to Allapuzah 39rps each about 1.5hr trip, then
found a canoe trip 150rps per hour up the backwaters bus back to Cochin about 4pm. It was worth it to
be away from the noise and bustle of Cochin. Cochin is in the state of Kerala (Gods own Country is the
slogan) it is a communist run state, with most of the population being fanatic catholics with a hindu
background this creates an interesting mix.
In the area across the road from Thomas Cook near Pallamuku Jn is lots of battery, invertors and
electrical shops.
This part of India is not renowned for its advanced technology we could not find a
data card to use in the mobile phone for internet!! And did we try!!!!
Mannikath Rd also in that area is where the Kathkali dancers perform each night.
Salalah Oman 25th Feb - 12th March 09
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Clearing in at the port area all in one office- no cash only credit card charged 3 times immigration ,
customs, port authority, 15rials+15rials+12rials about 168Au$. Mohammed was the local provider, we
hired a car from him about 11rials a day about 33Au$.
Diesel we got from the local garage in Jerry cans in the boot, the best fuel available anywhere so good
to get as much as you can as Aden fuel is not clean. Total we got 341lts for 198Au$ approx .46us per
Water we connect 3 hoses to the tap near the fishing boats and straight into the containers in the dinghy.
Laundry we just stopped at one near the first round about but very expensive.
Food 2 eateries at the port near the wharehouses, and a local supermarket well stocked at the end of no 2
wharehouse. In town there is Lulu’s, KM supermarket and Matara spinis, which is a shop for the armed
forces open to the public, great bakery and imported goods and cheese. When you come into town on Ar
Rubat st keep on the road to the An Nahdah roundabout, turn left to the end turn right (before the main
gate) through the smaller gates then it is on the right where there is parking and a tea shop. Shopping in
old Salalah is interesting best in late afternoon. Nothing happens anywhere between 12 and 4.
The money changer (cnr of 23 July St and An Nahdah)will change all your Indian rupees for anything
us$ or rials big Indian working population here most restaurants are Indian run. Driving is on the
right!!! In the port area is the Oasis Club wi fi available but check opening times. The Hilton has free wi
fi if you have coffee not bad for an hour, air con and no smoking.
Checking out you have to go up to the port office up the hill first to pay your dues before customs and
immigration a simple quick clearing out.

Al Mukallah 18th - 21st March 09
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The immigration men came in their own boat with an agent we filled in relevant forms nothing was
asked for they were polite and did not smoke when asked not to (we did not realize at the time about the
agent, Maha, but no problems as it turned out) They did not have uniforms, in fact we did not see
anyone in Yemen with a uniform except the police in Aden, they took our passports and arranged to
meet on the small fishing ramp in the morning. Ramp easier at high tide, a small hut nearby is the port
official, who will issue gate pass, they were helpful and rang the agent who came with passports and
port clearance. Did not get laundry done here, or fuel or water. It is a fascinating place to walk
around, women more friendly when we went walking without the men. It is a cover up place and even
then I did sense some adverse reactions but mostly young males. Clearing out was done by Maha at a
cost of 10us$ for him 10us$ for customs and 10us$ for immigration, no gifts asked for. Had excellent
fish meal at Al Salaam Hotel about 5 mins walk from ramp’
We did get a message that the port authority wanted us to move into the harbour for security reasons but
it is a small busy place and we were only staying 3 nights, we thanked them but declined, they insisted
so a compromise was made and we moved to just outside the harbour and wrote a letter (which we did
not get to deliver) absolving them. I have heard some cruisers not having a pleasant experience in Al
Mukallah but ours was. Even the envelop with my lost postcards was returned to me, which I had left in
a vehicle which we thought was a taxi when he stopped and picked us up, then refused payment.
Aden Yemen 24th - 26th March
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Customs and immigration are in the jetty area, port pass is free for 3 days 67us$ each for a visa. No
gift asked for nothing given just the warning smoking is bad for you. The man in the gift shop at the
jetty is helpful and polite (has 2 brothers) can mail cards he sells stamps, I did and they arrived ok.
There are a couple of guys hang around the jetty with transport we used Saleem and his son Mohamed
car was very old but most of the cars are around that area. Small mini bus near QV park go everywhere
just state destination and they will point you to the right bus.
Water available at the PW jetty 3us$ per ton can take containers in dinghy. There is also a tap at the top
of the steps.
Laundry a few places within walking distance of the jetty not expensive but check bag before you
Diesel is complicated procedure of payment but since many rally boats caused problems you now have
to take your boat to the fuel wharf even to fill jerry cans, it is not the cleanest diesel. But things may
change as they have a habit of doing. We went over in the dinghy first and were told to bring boat now.
Shopping there is a local veggie market in Tawahi area and small shops where you can buy cooked
chickens, eggs yoghurt and flat bread. Lulu’s supermarket is in Crater bus goes there, can get new taxi
return. Arab market is also in Crater lots of shops selling everything same same. Maalla town has DHL,
travel agents banks we used Orbit travel to book flights to Saana good service. Near the PofW jetty is a
dive shop, they refilled grahams scuba tank. Garage just a short walk away for petrol. Not an issue
bringing it through the check in at the jetty.
Did a one night 2 day trip to Sanaa, the flights were about 120us$ return pp we stayed at the Daewood
Hotel, which is an old residence converted, 400 years old, no lifts steep steps. 60us$ for the room
ensuite with breakfast + 10us$ for the airport transfer, right in the center of old Sanaa, could have kept
the room till departure late afternoon, staff were friendly and helpful, although we used them to book a
taxi to the airport, not a good move as it was a friend in a small car chewing ghat! Don’t try and get
anything serious done in Yemen after midday as it is ghat time and the young guys get sleepy then about
5pm get overactive. Taxi from Sanaa airport to Hotel was 1500YR about 20km. 101 things to do in
Yemen with fold out map, is a good guide book if you don’t have the lonely planet. We were working
on 200yr to 1us$.
Dudo Eritrea 4th - 6th April 09
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Only planned to go to Hannish Islands but the winds were good so kept on to Marsa Dudo, Red Sea
Pilot anchorage. Stayed the night only did not go ashore.
Adjuz Island Eritrea 7th - 8th April 09
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Pleasant anchorage from south winds but moved round the spit when it blew from the North. A small
canoe came out with 3 young men welcomed us we gave them water biscuits hats and cigarettes and
they invited us to the village for fish if we were still there the next day.
Adjuz Island 9th April 09
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Our first taste of head winds.
Port Smyth Eritrea 11th April 09
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Interesting Island went ashore for a walk, very shallow south of the old stone jetty. Clear water one good
coral bombie in shallow water between anchoring spot and old jetty.
Massawa Eritrea 12th April 09
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Called on the radio and were told to go to No 1 berth and tie alongside. Mike the Port Authority guy
came to the jetty, very good English and helpful with filling out forms the best way! Took Graham to the
immigration office and customs, here he was given a paper to allow him to change us$ at the bank.
Only changed 50us$ as the rate was better at Mikes (another one) Yasmin coffee shop. Who turned out
to have the best espresso in town. He did laundry and was a mine of information. Did not get water or
here. Passes were issued for the port gate. Mike (port authority) asked very politely for a t shirt
with the boat name on, only had one from Rebak Marina, (he was always smartly dressed) he brought
us a couple of non fiction books and was very appreciative when I returned with a couple of books.
Eritrea is very poor with little in the shops the only “supermarket” was Bella Vista a relic from Italian
days, there is a local 2 stall market behind there or you can get the local people taxi but if you get into an
empty one they will think you want to charter it
Can’t blame them for trying. The old Massawa (port Area) had internet café, photo copy store but not
any eating places and Yasmin Mikes only did breakfasts and coffee. Good to go about 5pm and sit with
everyone else having a good old natter. The streets were clean of litter and no smell someone was
always sweeping, war torn and poor. Children asked for pens and the occasional person begging.
Taking photo’s in the market was not welcomed. One yacht here heading for Ausralia.
Dahret/Dohul Island Eritrea 14th April 09
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Had to anchor a long way off shore between the two islands as it shoaled quickly only spent one night. Difnein Island Eritrea 15th - 16th April 09
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We set off for Khor Narawat sailed for 6 hrs during the day, stopping at a reef for a swim, wind died at
dusk so motored til 3am, winds turned NW20kts with 70nm to go we decided to turn back for Difnein
Island arrived 8pm 2-3mt seas strong wind no moon – get the picture? Stayed 3 nights, it is a military
outpost, we looked at the reef and graham swam ashore to the 3men on the beach, asked for papers so
we returned with port clearance and passports, after cursory look they invited us to join them for lunch.
We settled for tea and took them some supplies, newspapers and a mag, we sat and chatted over Eritrean
sweet tea and Tita bread, with the guns hanging on a nail on the wall, only one uniform between them,
no boat and 3month stay on the island only communication we could see was am radio. Very friendly
and glad we made the effort to go ashore. The newspapers were a great success. Not allowed to walk
anywhere though but could snorkel and walk on the beach. SV Graptolite joined us here.
Khor Narawat Sudan 19th - 20th April 09
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Anchored about 8am went ashore in the afternoon snorkeled. Sheltered spot pretty but unremarkable.
Inside the islands not so clear water.
Long Island Sudan 22nd April 09
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Hobby horsing for a while caught Queen fish and a small Tuna. Anchored near lagoon lots of bird life,
pretty, manta rays dolphins. Calm night. Graptolite here also. Stayed one night.
Suakin Sudan through the Shubuck Channel 22nd April 09
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Left at 0645 and could see the reefs by the time we got to the channel, followed waypoints in Red Sea
Pilot did not use c-map. Two coordinates in the RSP were a little off i.e. 18deg 48.6N 37deg 28.6E and
the next one 18deg 48.7N and 37deg 28.3E. We needed to favor the port markers. We passed these
around 10am visibility good and for once the Interphase did not let us down. Entering Suakin is better
during daylight hours as lots of surrounding reefs, it is a natural Marsa. Approaching the old town ruins
over the reef got to 2.4 under the keel about 4.4mtrs of water, narrow channel, anchorage well protected.
Agent/man about town Abu Mohammed will recognize him by deep deep voice we picked him up from
shore, no nonsense man took passports, completed forms, we paid – in US$ shore pass 2 x 30, agent fee
30, gas refill 9kg 20, 200ltrs diesel 140, 200ltr drinking water??!!?? 20, customs and immigration
charge 2 x 20, total 310US $ and we hadn’t got off the boat yet. All completed by the late afternoon.
Aaron on Carina just arrived before us. One boat in the anchorage heading South. Small market within
walking distance and bakery with great bread, very poor town, port not the main one now that Port
Sudan is working.
Muhammed took us to the local, (he wrote the names of the hotel, Suakin for return bus, in Arabic which
turned out to be very useful) local bus to Port Sudan 12 seater seating 18. about 40min trip about 5
S/Pounds. Mohammed arranged currency exchange, no atm in Suakin only Port Sudan, good fruit and
vegetable market, internet cafes (we used Kanana internet but there are lots), and restaurants. As it was
Friday the hotel Palace Hotel internet and restaurant was closed. Found one supermarket near the
market, with imported goods, but sooooo expensive. We had to get local bus to the bus station 5pds for
the 4 of us. Not camera friendly here. Clearing out done by Mohammed who met us with our passports
and cruising permit.
Marsa Ata Sudan 25th April 09
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Motor sailed winds NE-N-NW 15-20 we were down to 3kts at times so decided on this anchorage, need
good light there are markers as per Red Sea Pilot. We did a dinghy excursion in the marsa, mangroves
some thriving some dead, lots of bird life and flocks of flamingoes.
Sanganeb Reef Sudan 28th April 09
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Lovely reef but not good anchoring have to be prepared for difficulty when getting the anchor up. Good
snorkeling. SY Ventana was here for about 2 weeks. We caught Mr and Mrs Trevally on the way here.
Khor Shanab Sudan 29th – 30thApril
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We went close by Shab Rumi where Carina and Graptolite had stopped for a snorkel, there were 2
commercial dive boats here the first we had seen. This is where Jack Coustaeux had his research station.
Wind picked up from the NE so kept going. Wind died at dusk, moon set midnight, entered the marsa
about 10 am it was beautiful, walked up Quorn Hill early morning before breakfast, great view saw
goats and camels. Very sheltered anchorage but still get full effects of wind sand and chop.
Elba Reef Sudan 3rd May 09
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Motor sailed light winds away by 0630 saw pilot whales and dolphins, caught 2 barracuda but they lived
to fight another day. Stayed one night here.
Ras Baniyas Egypt 4th-5th May 09
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Fast trip wing and wing, wind increased during the day to 30kts and waves to 2-3mtrs we reduced sail to slow down, but that was too rolly so put the genoa back out, in the long run it didn’t matter as the NE 20 and waves slowed us down anyway. It came in suddenly like someone threw a switch so we diverted to Ras Banyas instead of the planned Dolphin Reef, Graptolite was ahead and too early to get into Ras
Banyas and kept going to Dolphin Reef. The same weather up and down the Red sea catching many
boats. Blew through the night 35kts nearly full moon. Stayed here 6 nights it was a welcome rest. One
cloudy day with some rain spots, which you could count before all the dust on the boat became a mud
Dolphin Reef Egypt 11th May 09
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6am start, motor sailed into the wind – what else. Swam with the dolphins in the afternoon, just get n
the water and they will come to you!! Go early before the dive boats or after they have left. Good
snorkeling on nw tip of reef near the wreck. Weather much cooler 22-25degs and 25-30%humidity.
Port Ghalib 13-14th May 09
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We managed a couple of hours sailing but motored through the night, there was a significant long
northerly swell, only saw 2 ships. We arrived at Port Ghalib at 0730 tied up to the immigration and
customs dock
, they came to the boat very polite and helpful, we were tested for swine flu,(temperature
taken in the ear) Total cost of check in was US$100 – 30 for immigration 30- government fee – 40
processing fee everything done by 11.30 we were guided to the berth, our first med style mooring!!!
This is a new development a bit like a theme park with an Egyptian theme, lots of restaurants but
nothing practical except the free water taxi from the marina side to the restaurant side. The prices
displayed at restaurants does not include service or tax and in some cases can be as much as 25% on top.
There is a bank and ATM amongst the shops. Everything seems to go in 50LE units – two ice-creams-
a t shirt – local beer the exception at 30LE (Egyptian pounds). Laundry can be done through the hotel at
hotel prices , swimming in their pool is extra. You can order fresh fruit, vegetables, dairy foods and
meats, but the prices are unreal. 200egpounds for 1kg of smoked turkey, at the local shop in the nearby
residential area it was 70pounds, to get there you can take the courtesy bus from the hotel reception
which goes to the beach but will stop at the roundabout and drop you off, we were lucky as we were the
only ones in the bus he took us straight to the supermarket and came back 1hr later. The supermarket
was well stocked and had small deli, but no fresh fruit or vegetables. They could be had 70km away the
quote we got for a taxi was 230pounds, so we opted for the hotel service. If you do this be sure to check
every item, the order has to be placed before 9am for 4pm pick up I incorrectly assumed they brought it
in from outside but when I got it , it looked like everything they did not want, never seen such bendy
cucumbers, zucchini, herbs they only sell by the kg!!! I was given a bill for everything I ordered not
what I received!! Nice try. We stayed 4 nights great to be able to wash the boat however futile it
seemed. Total cost was 464LE including power and water and rubbish. Everyone was courteous and no
buksheeshs, check out was a breeze, we filled jerry cans at the fuel dock on departure, .88cents a litre.
Walked to the Port office and collected our cruising permit. Visa was for 1month.
Ras Abu Soma Egypt 18th – 19th May 09
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We left with a decent looking grib forecast and by early evening the seas were glassy but…….at 2am the NW reared upp like a scolded cat and blew 20-30 so we did a side swerve to Abu Soma arriving at dawn. Stayed till next day.
Hurghada Egypt 20th May 2009
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We left Abu Soma at 0400 with an 8kt northerly but by 0630 it was 15kts and by 1030 up to 18kts but
this was ok as we did have shelter from the reefs around Hurghada, the marina was not busy but there
are a lot of floating bouys to manouver around but the marina boys come in there run about which is not
an inflatable!!! The supermarket at the marina belonging to the chain Abu Ashara with stores all over
town, it is very well priced and well stocked even has a deli section. Metro Supermarket is a no5 people
taxi (mini bus) for 1LE each, this is along Nasr Rd, hospital is near the Metro S/m. Just out of the gate at
the supermarket end, cross the road turn left cross over pass the coffe shop, bicycle shop and fish shop
on the corner and turn right passed the barber and you willl seeSemsema fast food shop keep walking on
that side and there is a sign high up advertising Sea Wave laundry with two fish on it. The laundry is
up a lane passed the carpenters and is very cheap and clean, quick service, 75piastas a piece ironed!!
You can also get it done by the marina. Almost opposite to the lane, across the road is a man selling the
best fresh bread, 3le per round. Along from him is the fresh dairy shop selling fresh yoghurt and milk
desserts. Fruit and vegetables stalls are here too. The travel agent we used is on Sheraton rd turn left out
of the marina near the tapas bar then right passed the pastry bakery to the end turn left and keep walking
till you see all the travel agents, it was Amenophis the mans name was Ayman he organized a trip to
our itinerary did all the bookings and organized guides for each place hotel, cruise and train back to
Luxor from Aswan for 4nights total 462us $ each and whilst on the boat that included all meals. After
being here for 2 weeks we are getting used to the system but were a little disheartened by the haggling at
first but now we take a stronger stance things seem to be easier. Extending our visas for one month (our
choice) was easy once you find the place, best by taxi, first floor, cost 11LE it took 1hr and we were
back at the marina. The Marina arranged our cruising permit extension as it had to go through customs,
it took a few hrs but they collected and delivered the passports to the boat at a cost of 30US$ for the
permit and 40us$ for the agent fee. Fuel was convoluted we only wanted jerry cans filling but had to
give 2 days notice then waited 2 more days and some prompting before it was delivered .85c a litre. Plus
20LE delivery. Foreigners are not allowed to travel the highways on any bus there are check points and
paperwork to get through, but organized tours and Superjet buses from the Bus Station are ok.
Endeavour Reef Egypt 11th June 2009
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We anchored in the outer bay there was a more protected anchorage towards the west but conditions
were calm. Clear water and it would have been easy to stay there a while, nice looking beach.
Marsa Zeitiya Egypt 12th June 2009
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Left anchorage with 10kts flat sea but adverse current, wind strength increased to 18kts waves increased and water over the wheel house, speed down to 3kts at times, currents constantly changing between reefs. This is oil field area not allowed ashore. We stayed here for 10days and made one attempt to cross the gulf to El Tur but turned back when wind increased to 25kts on the nose with short seas. We had constant wind of 25 to 40 for the ten days, hot hot hot dry wind from the NW. Marsa Zeitiya has to be the windiest place in the Gulf, later we studied the wind charts from different web sites whilst in Abu
Tig and it was definitely more windy there then anywhere else in the gulf.
Qeisum Island 23rd June 2009

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We decided to go to Abu Tig to restock and rest, anchored at Qeisum for one night, we had 35kts behind
us coming past the reef. But it was behind us. The anchorage was well protected and depth under the
keel was 3mts in sand.
Abu Tig Marina 24th June 2009
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There are two basins north and south, the north one was incomplete whilst we were there a lot of
construction work going on, but the marina were offering berthing free for one month, power and water
extra and no wifi. We stayed in the south basin which was busy small and very noisy, wifi not provided
but nearby restaurants had the service. The amenities block was 10 mins walk across the front of the
restaurants to the marina office, too far for a loo. Egyptian boat owners are not allowed to live aboard
their boats in Egypt. The marina is surrounded by mediocre restaurants all serving similar pasta dishes.
The nearby El Gouna village was within walking distance with 2 supermarkets, post office, atm and 2
fruit and vegetable shops which were not good when we were there. There are tuk tuks for 8LE or 5LE
per person, we took one to Abydos marina which is actually to timber jetties for dive boats, and two sail
in hard stands which work like a lock. But from the shore they look like large concrete boxes floating
on the water. Laundry was 4-5LE per piece we were told that the water is not drinkable but other boats
filled up with no ill effects. There is a bus to Hurghada for 5LE one way, we did not try it. We paid
345LE including power and water for 5 days plus 10% tax. If we had decided to stay in Egypt for the
season then we would choose Hurghada Marina a little more expensive for the berth but free wifi
everything accessible.
Qeisam Island 29th June 2009
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Anchored same spot.
El Tur Sinai Peninsular 30th June 2009
Hrs Taken
Anchor Position
Left the anchorage 08.45 there was adverse current between the reefs but not too choppy. We decided to take a direct line to Shag Rock, waves increased in the shipping channel but only 8nm wind on the beam motor sailed at 6kts to get across the busy channel once we turned round the bottom of Shab Ali reef the wind dropped to 15kts the seas were flat and we were happy, as the conditions continued to improve we made it to El Tur by 1830. El Tur is quite large, a prime wind surfing spot. Going ashore is not allowed anywhere on the Sinai Peninsular without special permission. Anchored amongst fishing boats, there is a large boatyard here mostly dive boats and some boat building. Stayed 5 nights again waiting for the
winds to ease.
Ras Zanema 5th July 2009
Hrs Taken
Anchor Position
We departed 0530 there was some swell but winds calmed by noon and almost glassy sea. Current
against us inside Belayim Oil field. Ras Zenema is a mining town, coal and phosphorous and oil rigs.
We anchored as per the RSP.
El Tawila 6th July 2009
Hrs Taken
Anchor Position
Winds slightly more but thank ful for long daylight hours. Motor sailed all day. Saw lots of shipping
heading for rallying point at Suez .
Port Suez 7th July 2009
Hrs Taken
Anchor Position

We had seen the agent in Abu Tig (Felix) and rang them on the way to Port Suez they were at the marina
to meet us, he took our papers and told us the measurer would come soon. There is now a floating dock
with power, water and wifi we went bow in with stern line to a bouy. Marina manager organized the fuel
containers to be filled and delivered back to the boat US$.90 a litre. We had prepared a type written
paper with measurements worked out as per the RSP formula. It worked well the measurer came only
measured the wheel house and cabin top did not ask for bucksheesh although Graham was prepared with
an envelope we were told it was his job, he gets paid and we should not give any bucksheesh to anyone!
The fees were US$322, 202 canal fee, 80 for the agent and 40 for customs. We did not get our passports
stamped as we wanted to spend time in Ismailia. Celebrated both being in Suez and Grahams 60th had
dinner at the Red Sea Hotel but had to be back by 10pm as agent would be back with our papers and to
tell us what time we would be leaving, 6am everything went smoothly in Port Suez only 2 boats
Ismailia 8th July 2009
Hrs Taken
Anchor Position

Our pilot to Ismailia was good, he arrived on time, did not smoke prayed quietly to himself and ate what
was offered, did not ask for anything, contrary to what we had heard. On arrival Graham did give him
an envelop 100LE and swimming goggles for his children, he did not open the envelop and departed
very quickly, it had been a long hot day, he did most of the steering but did not ask for the engine revs to
be increased, we did have current against us all day. After some of the stories we had heard of the canal
experience we were pleasantly surprised it all went so well.
The club at Ismailia was a disappointment the facilities were grotty and unusable, one washing
only was working, 3US$ per wash on honour system this was inside the only shower room
which had 4 showers one toilet and one urinal for all the boats and mainly used by staff for washing and
drying the club laundry. Power and Water available near the moorings. It is a hot place the sun
reflecting of the tiled deck of the club. Families arrive around 9pm for pizza and soft drinks and leave
around midnight, the best option is to put a bin in front of your boat so they won’t sit at the bow talking
on their mobiles, with noisy children, we sleep aft so not so much of a problem. There were two
weddings whilst we were there, one very loud but all gone by midnight Pizzas are good and fresh lemon
We had a 3night trip to Cairo using Mohamud Imbaby and his taxi, a very good driver and delightful
personality, although he will try a little conversion on the way back, but all well meaning. For a one day
return trip to Cairo he charges 200LE, good clean taxi. Mobil no is 0121538285. We had one morning
with him shopping and another seeing the sights of Ismailia. Metro supermarket is within walking
distance through the port security straight ahead to the canal over the bridge turn right keep walking to
the next foot bridge at the lights turn left and straight ahead on the right is Metro. Nefertiti restaurant is
air conditioned and good value but no alcohol served. Across the street is the best cake and icecream
shop I have seen, air conditioned glass front red sign. Another shopping and market area is over the
canal from the marina turn Left keep walking to the next bridge and lights turn right and the side streets
on the left are where the market is, vegetables and fruit during the day and clothing at night. This is not
a tourist town and people are very friendly, taxis are cheaper than anywhere. Trains (only 2nd class) run
to Cairo, Bus line is Delta to Cairo but when we went to the bus station we did not like the look of the
buses and thought Muhamed was the better option.
Fuel we did not get fuel here but one boat did whilst we were there with no problems arranging it with
the customs and immigration Mr Siad in the small kiosk type office before the security gate on the right
side. One other boat got fuel later and had a problem mainly because they did not play the game which
then caused problems for all of us with security then searching our bags and checking passports each
time we came and went. For the two weeks previous we had had no problems and once the guards were
used to you they did not check each time and stopped asking for cigarettes/gift.
Visa with an Egyptian visa you have two weeks grace after it has expired, extension in Ismailia is only
5LE in Hurghada we paid 11LE each. Ours ran out before we left for Cairo but we had no problems
anywhere and were not asked about it.
Port Said and Beyond
Our pilot Salem arrived on time we left at 0600 in fog but kept going as the pilot said we should make
most of the current which will turn against us around 9-10 am. We agreed! The pilot called the canal
authority and asked permission to raise the sail which we did and motor sailed when wind allowed, he
was polite, courteous and steered most of the way. We arrived at the drop off point in Port Said at
1300hrs, about 45nm the pilot boat came along side, we just stayed in the channel in neutral and off he
went, Graham gave him an envelop and something for his children, and cigarettes for the pilot boat, he
did not open the envelope, the crew on the boat called out for soft drinks and gifts but the pilot told them
to stop that he had their gift. So all went well and with great relief we set sail for Cyprus.

Source: http://www.valzart.biz/cruising%20notes2.pdf


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